Nanga Parbat 8125 m
Summited on 31.07.1997, via the Diamir face, Ukrainian Expedition.
At the end of daylight, Sergey Bershov and I went up to the top. Then there was a difficult night descending

The team members:
1. Vadim Sviridenko the head of the expedition
2. Sergey Bershov
3. Alexander Vlasenko
4. Michael Zagirnyak
5. Vladislav Terzyul.


A.Vlasenko, S.Bershov, V.Terzyul, V.Sviridenko, M.Zagirnyak in BC.

Nanga Parbat is the most western eight thousand meter peak, characterized by rather difficult relief. Among the possible routes for climbing one of the most interesting technically, the Kinshofer route, had been preferred. A considerable part of it consists of steep rocky walls. BC was located in the green zone at 4200m. The intermediate camps were situated at 4800m, 5800m and 6500m accordingly with the summit camp at 7400m.


Nanga-Parbat, 200 m to the summit.

Vadim Sviridenko, Master of Sport, the Honored coach of Ukraine, city of Odessa:

"I personally considered that in a big sport the merits of Terzyul are big demerits and I feel this seriously. I am an adherent of the soviet mountaineering tradition which pursues some strict rules, for example, such an incontestable one as a gradual increase in the rate of difficulty, and I try to follow them. At higher levels there are demands to climb wall routes in the Caucasus, participate in competitions and championships, and as with figure skating one should get scores from an independent jury. Terzyul realized that he was in a different situation. He did not pass too many Caucasus walls like the best climbers of my generation. He climbed the walls and did it well but he could not show his worth there. Nanga Parbat is exactly the mountain which would help him realize his facilities and answer whether he was able to climb all the eighthousanders or not. It occupies a 4-5 position on complexity; there are no simple routes to the summit. I asked Sergey Bershov, a famous Soviet climber, to take part in the expedition. I had two reasons for that: first, he had never been on Nanga Parbat; and second, his opinion was very important to me. He is a really distinguished mountaineer and quite experienced. Bershov and Terzyul climbed together; they took good care of each other and did everything correctly, they climbed absolutely perfectly. The only problem was that Vlasenko forgot to switch on the flashlight in summit camp and our guys had been seeking for it about two hours in darkness on their way down. They climbed like partners no one led. They went together, changing one another to work first. It was very important to me as coach that Sergey Bershov then said: let him go further ahead, everything is OK, Vadim, dont worry, everything will be fine"



on the summit of Nanga Parbat.