Lhotse 8516 m
Summited 18.05.2002 by the normal route, couloir of North-West face
with the Ukrainian expedition of alpine club “Odessa”.
fourth highest mountain in the world was pretty kind to us. It was
pleasant and no problem to climb…”
The team members:
1. Vladislav Terzyul, leader
2. Vadim Leontev
3. Vladimir Pestrikov
The team in BC.
The classical route to Lhotse is the couloir of the West wall which
comes from the Khumbu glacier, the same route that leads to Everest
from the south. The common part for both mountains is the Khumbu
icefall. Then higher, at approximately 6200m in the “valley of silence,”
the high altitude hidden cirque between Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse,
the ways separate. On the glacier before the icefall at 5300m is
Everest Base Camp. There one finds base camps of many expeditions
to Everest and Lhotse. This region is very popular. Besides climbers,
members of commercial expeditions and professional guides, a lot
of tourists and travelers from all over the world come here to take
a look at the highest peak of the planet. Everest BC is a pretty
variegated place. During a season more than two dozen expeditions
settle down there. Terzyul didn’t avoid fun here: he started with
a small scuffle. As soon as he found a place for camp and set down
tents for our BC he was told that they stood on the trail. A giant
tall Spaniard fought him but was defeated, and as soon as he learned
that was dealing with one of the world’s best high altitude mountaineers,
Compared with the others the Ukrainian expedition looked unusually
modest: the team numbered three members only. Financially, it was
not expensive, and lightweight - about one ton of expedition material
had been delivered to BC by the team members and four porters. High
altitude sherpas hadn’t been hired. Everything for the intermediate
camps had been carried up by the climbers themselves. The quantity
was minimal because the team climbed in alpine style; they used
ropes by turn, didn’t fix ropes on the route, and didn’t use supplementary
oxygen. The climb went well and finished successfully: all three
members summited. From a sports standpoint they looked effective
in comparison with commercial and other expeditions working in this
An atmosphere of commerce and competition dominates in Everest
BC. Terzyul himself strictly followed the sportive style of climbing
but supported commercial mountaineering as a different phenomenon:
“The mountains influence people positively. If someone has
a possibility and ability to climb mountains and is in a position
to hire professionals to help, why not.”
The highest mountain of the planet has always attracted people,
but now it is no wonder to climb Everest. Therefore it is honorable
to beat a special record: the age of the climber, physiological
characteristics, speed of climb, time spent on the summit, style
of descent and so on.
The Ukrainian team and the oldest woman climbed Everest, Tamaya
San just came down after her climb.
Scheduling of climb (V.Pestrikov):
"04.12.02 - the team came to BC
04.17.02 - setting up C1 above Khumbu icefall at 6100m
04.18.02 - reached 6400m and set up C2
04.25.02 - the next ascent, Terzyul and Pestrikov set up C3 on the
West face of Lhotse (7200m).
The route from C2.
Today the weather got worse abruptly which resulted in the death
of an English climber and serious frostbite for several sherpas
and western climbers. The team made the decision to come down and
relax before the final ascent.
04.28.02 - Leontev, then on 04.30.02 - Pestrikov and Terzyul left
BC for Dingboche (3600m) “green zone” - the rest area familiar to
Ukrainian climbers since the first Soviet Himalayas Expedition in
05.05.02 - after a good rest the group came to BC and on 05.08.02
left for the summit.
05.11.02 - Terzyul and Pestrikov brought up tent, gear and stuff
for C4 to 7800m then descended to C2 to relax shortly.
05.14.02 - the team again came up to C3. It took them 4 hours instead
of 7-8 during the first ascent. So they got acclimatized and felt
optimistic before attacking the summit. On this day the first team
reached the summit. It was especially good news because this first
was achieved by the Russian-Saint Petersburg expedition (with the
use of supplementary oxygen). Next day our group came to C4 and
set up camp.
05.16.02 - at 6:30 a.m. the team started from 7800m. The weather
was favorable for climbing, but closer to the summit it got windier;
due to soaring snow dust visibility was reduced. But it could not
prevent climbing and at 15:00 the Ukrainian banner was flapping
at 8516m over the mountain.
The bunner of city of Odessa on the top of Lhotse, in the background
is snowy slope of Everest.
Having spent around half an hour there the climbers began to descend
at 15:30 to C4. On that day Vadim Leontev got to C3 in order to
start removing it the next morning. On the following day all the
stuff from C4 and C3 had been taken down to C2 without any sherpa’s
05.18.02 - with heavy backpacks, over 30 kg, each member of the
team successfully passed through the Khumbu icefall and came down
to BC. After setting out from BC and trekking to Lukla the team
flew to Kathmandu on May 23, having finished the expedition successfully.”
The team of climbers in Kathmandu.