Peak 8047 m
Summited 03.07.1995, normal route, West edge and North ridge, International
|“There remained 50 meters
to the summit and it was towards evening. I asked my partner: What
shall we do? We would have a night descent, frostbite was possible…”Let’s
go to the summit,” – replied fifty-four-year old Alexander Vlasenko…”
Members of expedition:
1. Vadim Sviridenko, head of expedition
2. Vladimir Alperin
3. Alexander Vlasenko
4. Vladislav Terzyul
Alexander Vlasenko, Master of Sport, MD, city of Odessa:
Taking the final, most difficult steps, I was hardly able to breathe.
I sat down on the rocky summit of Broad Peak. Slava Terzyul, who
had been there for close to five minutes already, gave me some words
of encouragement while documenting the scene with a video camera.
Behind us was the long and arduous ascent to the top. Our success
was preceded by acclimatization climbs and the setting up of auxiliary
camps. Vladimir Alperin was on the saddle between the summit peaks
at 7800m. To avoid getting altitude sickness, he had decided to
go back to the assault camp. The weather was unstable. The foreign
climbing groups also on the route had decided against the summit
bid that day.
Terzyul on Broad Peak, K2 is visible in the distance.
This is an 8000m peak!’ I thought. I was filled with joy and gratitude
to God and the mountain for the ascent. Vladislav called to Base
Camp and we heard words of congratulation from expedition leader
Vadim Sviridenko. After taking photographs as memories of the mountain,
the descent began. It was 5 p.m. We downclimbed toward the saddle’s
safety. The sun, which was already getting very low, finally slipped
below the horizon. Twilight came on quickly. Descent through the
deep snow was difficult, especially for myself, and Vladislav was
constantly asking me to move quickly. But for me that was already
impossible due to my severe fatigue.
The longest part of the descent occured in darkness with wind
that had intensified in force. It blew off my warm mitten; my hand
was freezing. Finally we reached the place where there should be
ropes to aid us on the steepest part of the route. We searched for
a long time in the darkness, but could not find the ropes because
of the dim light our flashlights were giving - the batteries were
depleted. Suddenly we heard the voice of Vladimir Alperin: “Come
here, I am waiting for you”. He had come out to meet us with a flashlight
and thermos filled with hot tea. With his help we quickly reached
the tent. Comforted there, we grabbed a snack and drank tea for
a long time. It was midnight when we arrived.
It was hard to wake up in the morning, but Vladislav forced us
to wake up and have breakfast. We got ready and began to descend.
With every hundred meters down, we felt stronger, and at twilight
we reached Base Camp. There Vadim took us in his bear-like embrace,
and climbers from Poland, Canada, and other countries congratulated
us. Broad Peak in the sunlight was forceful and beautiful. Thank
you for allowing us to reach to the summit. Thank you friends and
especially Vladislav Terzyul for this ascent.